Italy 2012 - UD Study Abroad

Parting Words

Today marks our last free day in Rome and the end of our study abroad program. Through our excursions and class meetings over the past month, we have learned about the Italian political system, ancient Roman history, and life in Italy as a whole. We saw more churches than we can count and some of the most famous artwork in the world. We ate enough pasta and pizza to last us a very long time. We engaged in service learning activities that allowed us to interact with political refugees, homeless cats, and the Florentine Misericordia ambulance service. We have done all this and more, and we would invite you to look over our past blog posts to hear all the details, if you haven’t done so already :-)

As a group, we would like to thank Professor Magee for imparting his wisdom throughout the month and helping us plan such an awesome trip. We would also like to thank the Honors Program for giving us this opportunity-allowing us to pilot what we hope will become a new trend for UD’s study abroad program. Lastly, we would like to thank you, our readers, for following our day-to-day postings and giving your feedback. We hope you’ve enjoyed this trip as much as we have!

Now, a few parting words from each of us…

This past month has been the time of my life. I got to to do everything I wanted to do and ten times that. A favorite activity of mine in Italy was trying Spaghetti alla Carbonara at as many restaurants as I could (I tried 16 in all). I was also able to cross “Ride in a Gondola in Venice” off of my bucket list. Our group meals got me to try things I would never eat at home (like any type of vegetable), and the service component of the trip made me step outside of my comfort zone. I am so grateful for all of these experiences. I would just like to take this opportunity to thank Professor Magee for facilitating such a wonderful trip and to thank my classmates for being such amazing friends. I truly had a blast and I couldn’t imagine going abroad with any other group. Ciao Amici!

-Brian Christiansen-

I’ve been lucky enough to have parents who  took me everywhere, but never have I been on a trip like this! Free to explore on my own (and with friends), I did exactly what I wanted to do and saw exactly what I wanted to see, all while absorbing the unique culture of Italy, learning about it’s political system, and making amazing new friends. We did so many great things this month that it’s impossible to pick a favorite. It might be a while before I can even look at another plate of pasta though, after eating so much of it! I also want to thank Professor Magee for leading us on this great adventure and for being a wonderful professor and friend to us all. Arrivederci, loyal readers!

 ~ Max Levites

Looking back, we’ve had an amazing month seeing more of Italy than I could have ever imagined. Although it’s almost impossible to pick just one, my favorite moment of the trip has to be looking over Rome from the top of St. Peter’s Basilica. It might be because I experienced it after a full day of exploring the city with my friends (and climbing up all those stairs!), or it might be because it offered a spectacular panorama of a place that feels like a second “home” to me now. It’s hard to say ciao to such an unforgettable experience, but I’m returning back to UD with new friendships and countless memories to treasure. Thanks again to Professor Magee and to my classmates for making this study abroad program everything I hoped for and more.

-Audrey Guyer

Wow, I could not have imagined a better study abroad experience with a cooler group of people.  This trip opened my eyes to Ancient Roman History, the great artistic period of the Renaissance, as well as modern Italian culture.  During our trip, I kept a running list of my favorite churches, so here is my final top five in case you ever find yourself touring Italy:

1. Santa Maria Assunta (St Mary of Assumption), Siena
2. Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri (St Mary of the Angels and the Martyrs), Rome
3. Basilica di San Pietro (St Peter’s Basilica), Vatican City
4. Basilica di San Francesco (Basilica of St Francis), Assisi
5. San Paolo fuori le Mura (St Paul Outside the Walls), Rome

Thanks to all my friends on this trip and Professor Magee who made us feel at home despite being 4000 miles from Delaware.  Ciao for now, but I know I’ll be seeing everyone again soon!

- John Klodnicki

Throughout this past month, I have experienced more than I could ever have imagined in the amazing country of Italia. I had the most supportive group and professor with me on this journey, and I have confidence in saying that we never wasted any time. I have seen well over 30 churches, walked 100s of miles, visited some of the most famous monuments and museums in the world, and made 14 new friendships. This time abroad has helped me to become more well-versed in art, less judgmental, and more independent. It is always important to have those experiences that not only help you become a better global citizen, but a better person as well - this, in my eyes, has accomplished both. Italy has sparked an even bigger travel bug in me and I cannot wait to explore more of Italy, and more of the world. Thank you to my all of my new friends and Professor Magee for making this the experience of a lifetime.

Ciao!

- Chelsey Rodowicz

I had an amazing time in Italy and learned so much both about Italian culture and myself. You may remember from past entries that I love to climb stairs, any stairs really, but if they lead to a fantastic view, like those to the top of St. Peters, all the better. Something you may not know though is that I am also a connoisseur of bathrooms. As a girl with a particularly small bladder, I had the opportunity to explore many “toilets” in Italy. Here’s what I’ve learned:

1.     Italians don’t like public restrooms; you’re more likely to find an ancient stone toilet than a real porcelain one. If they are available at all, they cost (I boycotted these on principle).

2.     If you want to find a restroom your best shot is stopping in a restaurant and picking up a cappuccino (at least you spend your 1 euro on a drink and a toilet)

3.     One thing the Italians do better – sinks. Automatic sinks can be tricky, how do you get your hands to line up perfectly with the sensor and wash them at the same time? The Italians solved that problem with foot petals, your hands stay clean and you have complete control over the flow of water – brilliant.

That’s it for me, I hope these helpful hints will enrich your future travels

– Grace Oldfield

Without a doubt the previous month in Italy for me has been the most memorable experience of my life. I learned an enormous amount about the Italian culture, its politics, geography and most importantly, myself as a person. I got to see the Pope, climb two of the most famous basilicas in the world, and see the Italian National Parliament, three things I never could have imagined doing in my life before I went on this trip. However my favorite part was having the opportunity to experience all of this with fourteen incredible friends that I will have for the rest of my life. I would like to thank Professor Magee for everything he did for us on the trip. He was always there when we needed him and I know we would not have been able to see so much of Italy without his knowledge and experience. Ciao !                                                                  

-Evan Kimpel

How could I possibly articulate what this past month has meant to me? This trip to Italy has truly been the cherry on top of almost a decade of education in Italian language and culture. After years of reading about many of the places we went in books, seeing them in person was a whole new experience for me and a dream come true. Not having been able to utilize my speaking skills much in the past, this trip provided me the invaluable opportunity to apply what I’ve learned. Not only did my Italian help me read menus and street signs, more importantly, it allowed me to speak to refugees about their experiences and talk to a taxi driver about what it’s like to live in Naples and drive up to Mount Vesuvius a few times a day. I also could not have imagined traveling with a group of students more eager to absorb as much of the language, culture, and history of this beautiful country as possible than this group, which has become like a second family to me. It makes me smile to recall the amount of times I was asked, “What does this mean?” And believe me, I learned much more from my peers over this past month than they have learned from me. They, and Professor Magee through his unlimited wisdom, have made me a better academic and a better person, always challenging me to grow. I will never forget this trip and the people that made it the best experience of my life.

 Grazie mille to all of our readers. Ci vediamo presto!

- Allison McCague

Going to Italy, I did not know what to expect. I did; however, know that I would be seeing amazing artwork. My personal favorite was anything by Michelangelo. I loved the Sistine Chapel and his Prisoners. What I learned most from this trip is that I like seeing new places and experiencing new things. I believe I have my thirteen new friends and one great professor to thank for making my first traveling experience one that I will never forget.

~Hilary Kerchner

This was so much more than a study abroad trip…it was the experience of a lifetime.  We traveled to dozens of cities and went on countless excursions.  My favorite activity had to be climbing to the top of St. Peter’s Basilica.  Our legs may have been sore, our faces sticky with sweat, and our hearts thumping out of our chests, but stepping on stair number 551, I knew we achieved more than just reaching the top—we grew closer as a group.  I want to thank everyone for making this trip an amazing experience.  Looking back, there is definitely something special about our group of honor students.  We may have left the United States as peers, but we came back as family.  Whether it was touring the Colosseum, debating the democratic principles of Italy’s government, or eating two-in-the-morning pastries, we all shared a passion for learning, adventuring, and immersing ourselves in this unique culture.  Thank you so much Professor Magee, for giving me this opportunity.  I have not only made my closest friends, but I have grown to be a more independent and global person. 

Ciao! Kelly Kimpton

These past five weeks have been some of the most eye-opening and life-changing weeks of my life. Having never been outside of the country – having never even been off of the east coast – I was extremely excited for studying abroad in Italy. However, I had no idea before we left that I would be embarking on an adventure that would open me up and expose me to so many things: ancient Roman buildings still standing that serve as concrete engineering feats, history, history, and more history that really puts life today into perspective, Renaissance sculptures and paintings that look so real, the pure beauty of nature, modern European andAmerican politics, civic engagement and the crucial importance it holds in society, and so much more. Most importantly, though, this experience exposed me to 13 brilliant and loving Honors students whom I now call friends, and one of the best professors I have had at UD who served as a leader, mentor, professor, and friend. I am so grateful for this truly unique opportunity that has changed my life and opened me up.

 - Mark Wisniewski

One of the main reasons I chose to come to UD three years ago was for the study abroad program offered here. I have never left the United States before this and had been looking forward to expanding my horizons for a very long time. Even though I had so many expectations, this trip and the friends I made far surpassed my wildest imagination. I got to see beautiful artwork, volunteer in a caring community, and eat delicious pasta and pizza (thankfully I had Grace to force me to walk off the extra carbs!) all while bonding with an extraordinary group of men and women. Professor Magee did not only teach us Italian politics and culture- he taught us all to trust ourselves and each other so we could fully embrace this experience. No words can express my gratitude and appreciation for those who made Italy one of the best months of my life. 

Ciao (goodbye) to our readers, but also ciao (hello) to fourteen new friendships!

- Brooke Petruzzelli

During our first week in Rome, I came home from one of our excursions and just started crying. I missed my family and didn’t know what I was going to do being so far away from them for a whole month. Well, as I’m sure you know, I managed to do a lot of things in that month without them. And while you all read about our trips to museums and churches, I got to experience much more than those things. What truly made my experience in Italy was not the sights or the food, it was the group I got to share those experiences with. We struggled up the stairs of St. Peter’s together. All fifteen of us ate dinner together almost every single night. After we landed in Philadelphia and picked up our suitcases, it became real that we weren’t going to be with each other every day. And then the crying started again. While I will miss my new family, I know that we will make the time to see each other. I want to thank all of my new friends for making my study abroad experience so amazing. I would also like to thank Professor Magee for accepting me to the trip and having faith in me. (I would also like to thank him for taking me to the doctor in Italy when I had Strep throat and for getting me a cake on my birthday!)  This truly was the experience of my life.

Paige Valeski  

This trip was incredible. It was great to see all the history and sights and sounds everywhere we went. I especially enjoyed the ancient Roman ruins & learning about life almost two thousand years ago. The food was amazing, and so was the company. I could not have asked for a better group of friends to spend the month with. Together, we saw more than I could ever have imagined. Italy: we came, we saw, we conquered. 

-Ben Natrin

Farewell, Italy!

Home Sweet Home (Away from Home)

Today was a bittersweet day for us. We were excited to leave Florence for Rome, our “second home”, but we all new that our return to Rome also meant that we were beginning the final stretch our trip. Even though today was primarily a travel day, we still found a way to squeeze a few cool things into our agenda. In fact, we got to see an entirely new city today. We stopped for a few hours in Assisi on our way from Florence to Rome. Assisi is in the region Umbria, and is situated in the side of Mount Subasio. Assisi is also a twin city to three other cities in the world: Bethlehem, Santiago de Compostela, and San Francisco. The city has also been designated by UNESCO as a city of peace.

We stopped in three churches while we were in Assisi. The first church was the Basilica di San Francesco. The church is named after Saint Francis, who was born and died in Assisi. He founded the Franciscan Order of the Monks, whose mantra is to live as simply as possible. Saint Francis renounced all of his father’s possessions and dedicated his life to the church and helping the poor. The church was comprised of an upper level, a lower level, and a crypt. The crypt still holds the remains of Saint Francis, and every half hour there is organized prayer in honor of the saint.

The second church we visited was Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, or Saint Mary above Minerva. This church was very unique in the fact that it was built over a Roman temple to the goddess Minerva, and you can clearly see its Roman character from the outside.

The third and final church we saw today was the Basilica di Santa Chiara. The church bears the name of Saint Clare, well known for founding the Order of Poor Ladies (commonly known now as the Poor Clares). Saint Clare also happened to be Saint Francis’s most devoted follower. Similarly to Saint Francis, Saint Clair’s remains are in the crypt of the basilica. The basilica boasts a beautiful panoramic view of the city and looks enormous from the outside.

We also grabbed a bite to eat while we were in Assisi at Fontebella. Since we were one of the few groups in Assisi, we had the entire restaurant to ourselves. Our three course meal began with two different pastas: one with red sauce and one with white. Afterward, we were served pork with a mushroom sauce. And for dessert? Panettone (a sweet bread with raisins) and a cup of Italian hot chocolate. One thing that I am going to miss when I go back to school is these three course meals…

It was only another three hours by bus from Assisi to Rome, and we were very happy to see the Hotel Palatino again. We grabbed some dinner at a familiar restaurant, and we are now all putting the finishing touches on our Political Science papers which are due tomorrow. Speaking of which, I should probably go finish mine up now!

Ciao!

-Brian Christiansen-

P.S. Happy “Last Day as a 20 Year Old” to Paige!

Arrivederci Firenze!

The original plan for today was for all fourteen of us to travel to an area in Italy known as Cinque Terre, which literally means five lands. Cinque Terre is actually a group of five villages (Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, Monterosso) located along the coast of Northwestern Italy in the Liguria Region west of La Spezia. The location of the towns along the coast provides for some of the most beautiful views in Italy. Unfortunately the weather gods did not cooperate with us because the forecast for today showed rain all day. So instead of getting soaked in Cinque Terre, we decided to explore more of Florence and see some of the sites we did not have a chance to see.

We started today at the oldest church in Florence, the Basilica di San Lorenzo (St. Lawrence Basilica). When we arrived we had a little bad luck (again) because Mass was in progress so we weren’t allowed to walk around or take pictures. However we were still able to enter, look around from the back of the church and learn a little about its history.

San Lorenzo was founded in 393 and was the cathedral of Florence for over 300 years. It was also the parish church of the Medici family and in the 15^th century it was transformed from its 11^th century Romanesque form into its present-day structure due to significant grants made by the family. The new Renaissance design of the church is credited to Filippo Brunellechi, even though it was completed after his death. There are members of the Medici family buried around various points inside the church, most notably Cosimo de’ Medici (the church’s main benefactor), and even the famous Donatello are buried here as well.

San Lorenzo Church

Next we walked over to the Battistero di San Giovanni (Baptistery of St. John), also known as the Florence Baptistery, located in Piazza del Duomo. The Baptistery is an octagonal shaped building, which symbolizes the octava dies (also know as the ‘eighth day’), representing the time of the Risen Christ outside of the seven day Earth cycle we are familiar with. The shape is related to the sacrament of Baptism because it was believed by Christians that they pass into a new life once they are baptized, called the ‘eighth day’, which has no end.

Upon entering the building, we were immediately overwhelmed with a magnificent gold mosaic that decorated the ceiling. With the help of a pamphlet we found inside, we were able to decipher the mosaics. Along three adjacent portions of the ceiling was the Last Judgement, which depicted Christ summoning the living and the dead with Heaven on His right and Hell on His left. The remaining five sections of the ceiling are covered in stories from the Book of Genesis, Joseph, Mary and Christ, and St. John the Baptist.

The ceiling of the Baptistery

After we finished looking inside, we also took time to look at the three entrance doors of the Baptistery that are decorated with more images from the Christian faith. The North door is decorated with scenes from the New Testament while the South door is decorated with scenes from the life of St. John the Baptist. The third and most famous door of the Baptistery is the East door, which was given the nickname the ‘Gates of Paradise’ by Michelangelo. This door illustrates ten scenes from the Old Testament and is completely covered in gold. The current door on the Baptistery is a copy of the original (now located in the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo). It was astounding to see all of the detail that went into constructing each individual scene on the doors.

The East Door of the Baptistery

Since this was our last full day in Florence, the group (including Professor Magee) went out to eat at one of our favorite restaurants in the city called the Yellow Bar. Some of the meals we had included spaghetti carbonara, stracciatella, and my personal favorite the gnocchi rosé. The food was delicious and we all had a wonderful time spending our final meal in Florence together.

But wait just one minute, what would Florence be without pastries? Better yet what would Florence be without pastries late at night? In our travels around Florence we heard of a secret bakery that sells pastries to customers beginning around 2 a.m. for only one euro. As college students we felt the need to investigate this bakery and see for ourselves if it was true. After some research online we found the address and began to look for it. Sure enough we found the bakery and all of us got a chocolate or cream filled croissant. It was definitely one of the best pastries I had while I was here in Italy. So if you are ever hungry in Florence late at night keep your eyes open for a pastry place and if you need help finding it, just follow your nose!

A piú tardi!

-Evan Kimpel

A Pitti Good Day

Even strikes can’t bring us down!

Our morning routine is becoming second nature: early rise, quick breakfast, and prompt departure for our day’s destination. I had been looking forward to today’s excursion to Venice for our entire trip, and I am happy to report that the city did not disappoint me. We caught an 8:26 bullet train that was surprisingly full… We learned that the train was unusually crowded because the local trains were on strike. This was not the first time we have encountered a strike in Italy, and in fact it was explained to us that strikes are a very common occurrence in this country. The view from the train was much different than the landscapes we are used to seeing in Italy. In fact, I think it was the first time that there wasn’t a mountain in eyesight.  Professor explained to us that we were going through the Po Valley, the agriculturally rich section of the north fed by the Po River, Italy’s longest, an area that is much flatter than the rest of mostly mountainous Italy.

When we got to Venice, we had a brief overview of the history of the city from Professor Magee. While there may have been original settlers in parts of Venice, most historians generally agree that the area of lagoons grew because refugees were fleeing northern Roman cities and from Germanic and Hun invaders from the north.  I am sure that most of you will be surprised to hear that Venice would become an independent republic for eleven centuries during which Venice ruled the entire Adriatic, becoming known as “Queen of the Adriatic” with its vast and powerful navy. It became an extremely rich city because of its capacity to control trade with the “Orient.” In 1796, Napoleon and his armies overtook Venice, and the city eventually changed hands to the Austrians before it finally ended up as an Italian city during Italy’s unification.

Our brief history lesson was followed by a ride on the water taxi through the canals of Venice. We intended to get off at Piazza San Marco, but the water taxis were on “partial” strike and could take us only as far as the Rialto. Two strikes in one day, what are the chances? Apparently in Italy, the chances are pretty high… We walked the rest of the way to Piazza San Marco, the only plaza in the entire city (every other square is known as a “campo”).  The piazza is home to a couple of impressive buildings, but the one that dominates the plaza is St. Mark’s basilica.

This basilica is one of my personal favorites because it is unique and unlike any other that I have seen so far. For starters, the floor of is uneven due to the cathedral’s sinking foundation and occasional flooding. Secondly, the ceiling is entirely covered with the most breathtaking gold mosaics. These gorgeous mosaics reflect the light in such a way that the gold almost looks like it is glowing. Also, I think you know our group by now; I am sure that it will come as no surprise to you that we had to climb to the balcony of the cathedral to get a good view of the plaza. No worries, it was only about 40 stairs. The picture below is of us at the top of the cathedral, and you can see the plaza in the background.

From the plaza, we went to look at the famous Ducal Palace. This is where the doge of Venice lived. The prison of Venice is located across a lagoon from the Ducal Palace, and connecting the two buildings is the Bridge of Sighs. Once convicted, prisoners would be escorted from the palace to the jail over this bridge. It is said that these prisoners would look out over the canal from the top of this bridge and sigh because they knew it would be the last time they saw daylight, hence the name “Bridge of Sighs”.

My Bologna Has a First Name…

Despite today’s morning class starting so early, it was extremely productive. After taking our last quiz on the political system of Italy, we spent the remaining two hours presenting our paper topics to the class. “What is one aspect of Italian politics that you believe is its strongest asset or most prominent weakness?”  Once again, the class was split between assets and weaknesses, and we all learned through each other’s presentation.  The main asset of Italy’s system is the democratic nature of its proportional representation system, which allows smaller parties to have a say.  However, this system also leads to weaknesses that many of us pointed out.  Coalitions, or groups of parties, must be formed to create a majority in Parliament that will support the Prime Minister.  In Italy’s past, this practice has led to political parties bribing other Members of Parliament to join or leave one coalition.  Also, instead of voting for an individual candidate, Italians vote for a political party and the party boss chooses the individual party member that will be in Parliament.  As American students this was a little hard for us to grasp, and we decided that this is a weakness of the Italian system because it takes away power from the citizens.  After much debate on these topics, we all understood each other’s perspective and solidified the topic for our paper.  And to think that before I took Professor Magee’s POSC441 class I didn’t even know Italy has a Parliamentary system! I believe all 14 of us agree that we have learned so much through this class and also through our excursions.

Speaking of excursions, we went to Bologna today! Class was early and three hours, so many students would want to relax for the afternoon, but that’s not our style.  Around noon, we hopped on a bullet train and arrived in the unique town of Bologna 40 minutes later.  One noticeably unique factor of the town is that all of the sidewalks are covered in beautiful arches so pedestrians will be shielded from the weather.  Also, these arches are much taller than is necessary for normal human height because men on horseback would also travel under the arches- this shows how long this architecture have been in use!

Despite the many unique factors of the town, many of us felt right at home in Bologna. Why is this you ask? Because it’s a university town! The University of Bologna, founded in 1088, is the oldest university in Europe.  In a way Bologna reminded us of Newark, and we were happy to feel comfortable and welcome.

Because this town is full of students and native Italians instead of tourists, we were able to better grasp the culture.  Our brains full of political science, we were quick to notice the how Bologna is an extremely political town.  Professor Magee made sure to point out the prominence of this influence.  Once a major city of the papal states before Italian unification in the 19th century, Bologna became in postwar Italy a city in which the power of the Italian Communist Party (PCI) was at its peak.  It still is, although the party officially changed its name throughout the country to the Democratic Party of the Left. One defining characteristic of this political party is that members are anti-fascist. Even in the main square, Piazza Maggiore, stands a monument dedicated to the citizens of Bologna who lost their lives in the anti-fascist movement during the Second World War.

Another monument that showed us how deep political issues between the left (“Communism”) and the right (“Fascism”) run here was the memorial to the 85 men, women, and children that lost their lives during a terrorist bombing in the Bologna train station on August 2, 1980. The “Massacre of Bologna” was planned and executed by the radical neo-fascists.  The original wall and floor that was blown out in the blast are still on display so everyone who walks through the train station can pay their respects.

With such a rich political past, it’s no surprise that the citizens of Bologna are still extremely politically minded. Everywhere we would go would be graffiti- but not the graffiti we were used to seeing in cities such as Rome and Naples. Political graffiti declaring “Fasci Assassini” or “Destroy Capitalism” ruled the streets. We even came across many walls on which “We are the 99%” was sketched. (Occupy Bologna?!) The group was obsessed with finding more and different works of graffiti in the hope that we would gain a better understanding of Italians’ political mindset in this region.

Despite spending most of our day in Bologna admiring the political atmosphere, we did get a chance to see some interesting sites! The most famous and unique of them all were the Two Towers. These towers, built between 1109 and 1119, are miraculously still standing even though they are leaning! The shorter tower of the two, Garisenda, is leaning at more of an incline than the taller one, Asinelli.  Also, the names of these towers derive from the families that are credited for their construction all those centuries ago. 

Our time in Bologna was short, but we all learned so much! I can’t wait for the rest of our excursions… Only one week left!

Ciao! —Brooke Petruzzelli

La Misericordia Di Firenze

Today our group took part in a service activity with La Misericordia Di Firenze, one of the oldest and best-known charitable organizations in Tuscany. The Misericordia (Italian for “Mercy”) was founded in 1244 by Florentine noblemen, who, seeing the social poverty in their beloved city, organized the service to provide free transport of the ill and infirm to hospitals in order to receive medical care. Historically, the volunteers of the Misericordia were completely anonymous, and would wear the characteristic black robe and “buffa”, which covered the face, hiding the benefactor’s identity (this robe was worn by volunteers up till 2006). It was said that (roughly translated) “God will give back to you, just as you give to others” - the volunteers glorified God with their actions, without recognition. Today, the Misericordia provides many social services, including providing food to the needy, lending money on a need-basis, and providing social care to children, the needy, the elderly, and the infirm. However, the Misericordia is best known for its medical transport & ambulance service, which helps transport the sick, handicapped, and elderly citizens of Florence from their homes to the hospital and back, free of charge.

Throughout the day (7:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.), we worked with the Misericordia in shifts, working with the ambulances to transport dialysis patients, out-patients, and intellectually disabled patients to the hospital. We signed up for different time slots, with two or three students going out with different ambulances every few hours throughout the day. Luckily, none of the work we would be doing required any medical training, and none of us had to deal with any kind of medical emergency while on duty. From my own experience and what I heard from everyone else, the time spent with the Misericordia was quite eye-opening, and provided an interesting look at how a part of the Italian health care system works.

                         Audrey, Chelsey, and Grace in the Misericordia waiting room

We were all very nervous and unsure of what to expect, but shortly after getting into uniform, we found that, even though we didn’t speak much Italian, we were still able to help out in many basic ways. It doesn’t take much vocal communication to help people up and down stairs, help them onto gurneys, load patients into the ambulance, hold doors open, and wheel them around the hospital. Because we were only volunteering for the day, we could do little more than observe and learn as much as we could in the time we had. The Italian volunteers instructing us were very friendly towards us and the patients, and it was clear how rewarding and enjoyable it was for them to spend their time helping others.

                                Paige riding in the back of our Misericordia ambulance

In the afternoon, students who had worked the morning shift had some free time to rest, study explore, while the others finished their afternoon shifts with the Misericordia. Brooke, Paige, Kelly, Max, and Allison chose to spend their time by going to the Bargello museum, which houses many major works of art, including a room of masterpieces by the famous artist Donatello. Our group can say that they have now officially seen the works of all four Ninja Turtles!

Once everybody’s shifts had ended at 6:00 p.m., we had a meeting with the vice-director of the Misericordia, Mr. Andrea Morino, who explained to us in more detail about the centuries-old Misericordia of Florence.  We learned the history and organizational structure of the group, as well as much of the information stated above. While the Misericordia in Florence is not the only such group in Italy (it is very active in southern Italy, in particular, contrary to the established stereotype that the south lacks “social capital”), it is the clearly oldest and best known service of its kind. While the organization has strong bonds with the Catholic Church, the two have always been separate entities, as the Misericordia has historically been run and staffed by the lay (laici, non-clerical) citizens, merchants, and nobles of Florence. Amazingly, there are some 12,000-plus citizens who volunteer time every year with the Misericordia, approximately 800 of whom serve on a nearly daily basis, giving their time, energy, passion, and competence without pay or compensation. In fact, only the small administrative staff that runs the organization gets paid at all. It is truly a miracle that the Misericordia is able to run as a non-profit, offering all of its many exemplary services free of charge. While some of the financial support for the program comes from the government, most of the funding comes from donations from Florentines, emphasizing the strong bond between the Misericordia and the citizens of Florence. In fact, the Misericordia has such a strong presence in Florence that, rather than call an ambulance an “ambulanza”, Florentines will say “there goes the Misericordia.”

                                              Students with Misericordia staff Andrea and Chiara

-Ben Natrin

Amiamo Firenze!

Today we took a break from bus and train travel and stayed local in Florence.  Our group was excited to get to know the beautiful Tuscan city where we’ve been staying for the past week.  We all met in the hotel lobby around 9:15 to greet our wonderful new tour guide Isabella, a native of Florence, who would escort us through the Ufizzi Gallery and elsewhere nearby.  She clearly had a passion for her city’s artistic and cultural history.  And so began one of the most memorable days of our study abroad trip so far.  

Our first stop was the Piazza della Signoria, the old government plaza where the Medici family governed Florence starting in the 1500s.  Isabella explained how the Medicis, an extraordinarily wealthy banking family, were able to buy political and religious influence in order to rule Florence for the greater part of three centuries.  The first eye-catching part of the Piazza is its impressive assortment of statues, most of which were commissioned by the Medicis to decorate the area in front of their palace.  Among these sculptures are the Fountain of Neptune, Cellini’s Perseus With the Head of Medusa, and Michelangelo’s David.  Although the David is a copy of the original (which had already seen in the Accademia), it was a whole new experience to see it in the original location as the artist had intended.  Another interesting aspect of the art is the fact that Medici faces are worked in to the heads of the heroes and Gods.  For example, Neptune’s face is actually that of Cosimo I de’Medici.  It’s incredible to think that the Medicis were so wealthy that they became Dukes, Popes, and even ancient Roman Gods.  

Michelangelo’s David in front of the old Medici Palace

Although we could not enter the old Medici palace (now the seat of the comune—city government—of Florence), we did see the inner courtyard, decorated with images of “grotesques”.  Interestingly enough, the word “grotesque” actually came about quite by accident around the 1400s in Rome.  During a dig, a group of artists fell through a hole which they believed led to a grotto, containing numerous frescoes.  They named the images “grotesques” from the word “grotto”, though in fact they had fallen into the ancient golden palace of Nero.  Over the centuries, as archaeologists got so tired of uncovering one fresco after another, the word “grotesque” gradually obtained the negative connotation it has today.   

Some “grotesque” frescoes on the ceiling of the Medici courtyard

The tour next led us to the Uffizi Gallery, one of the most famous and premier Renaissance museums on Earth.  Organized chronologically, starting during the late Middle Ages around the 1100s and ending in the 1700s after the Renaissance, the Uffizi displays a major segment of art history.  Isabella explained beautifully how the content as well as the purpose of art changed drastically over the centuries.  For one thing, the style changes to include perspective, which transforms the content of art from a mere symbol to something much more realistic.  In addition, as humanity became more prosperous after the Middle Ages, the art takes on a more personal quality.  For instance, Fabriano’s Adoration of the Magi was commissioned by a cloth trader and includes many beautiful fabrics as well as the face of the client himself, acting as a kind of business card for the time.  In fact, in many Renaissance paintings, anyone who looks out of the canvas and who is not a religious figure is usually the painter himself. 

In addition to seeing the wonderful progression of art history, we saw works by the Renaissance greats.  In the Uffizi were paintings by three out of four Ninja Turtles: Leonardo da Vinci’s Adoration of the Magi, Michelangelo’s Doni Tondo, and Rafael’s Pope Leo X.  After seeing these works in context, our group came to fully understand why these men are considered some of the greatest artists of all time.  In the end, we saw too many great works to be described here, including the immediately recognizable Birth of Venus by Botticelli, and we came away with a much deeper and profound understanding and appreciation for art. 

Before saying goodbye to Isabella, we visited one of her favorite churches in Florence, the Orsanmichele.  This building was very unusual because it was used simultaneously as a grain market as well as a cathedral, and was certainly different from every other church we’ve seen.  

Our group along with Isabella in front of the Orsanmichele

A morning this fascinating would be enough for most college groups, but not us.  Our day was just getting started!  After lunch we headed over to the Duomo, with the mission of climbing to the top of the dome.  463 steps later we emerged into the gorgeous sunny sky and witnessed arguably the best view of our entire trip.  The beautiful city of Florence is nestled among the mountains and has a character which can only be fully appreciated from atop the Duomo.  

Part of the view from the top of the Duomo, though no picture can do it justice

We returned to the hotel for a quick nap before the last adventure of the day: our first authentic Italian Opera.  Our classy-looking group set out to the Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino to see Gioachino Rossini’s Il Viaggio a Reims.  Professor Magee, who is a human encyclopedia of opera knowledge, explained how Rossini was one of the great composers of all time.  This opera is a comedy (opera buffa), which follows the antics of European aristocrats as they travel to the coronation of King Charles X of France.  It has lots of romantic tension among the cast, as well as some funny scenes which poke fun at many European nationalities.  Although we could understand neither the lyrics nor the subtitles (in Italian), everyone still followed the general plot and thoroughly enjoyed the vivacious music of this great composer.  The set was a highlight, which contained an actual swimming pool on stage. The conductor, a very enthusiastic young man named Daniele Rustioni, bounced up and down on the podium to Rossini’s feverish and melodic score. He also had fantastic hair, which he periodically flipped back from his face capturing the hearts of many females (and males) in the audience.  

Grace, Audrey, and Evan awaiting their first Italian Opera

Thus ended one of the best and busiest days of our program in Italy so far: an excellent day in Florence which none of us will ever forget.  

Ciao!

- John Klodnicki

Heads, Horses, and Heights

     Our first early morning in Florence, we sat down for a quick breakfast at 7:00 and commiserated over our losses during the football games last night. Then, we caught the bus to Siena to meet up with Professor Falassi whom we introduced to you on Saturday.

    After catching a quick nap on the hour bus ride we arrived in a foggy, chilly, Siena. Our first stop was San Dominico, a large brick church which contains the preserved head and thumb of St. Catherine. As we peered at the glass case containing St. Catherine’s head, Professor Magee whispered that she was made a saint in 1461. Pope Pius IX also made her a Doctor of the church, a very unusual accomplishment for a woman, and in Pope Paul VI made her the patron saint of Italy, and pope John Paul II declared her the patron saint of Europe. What did she do to deserve all of these Catholic accolades you may ask? Well she brought the Pope back from France in 1377.

    We then continued on to the Piazza del Campo, where two members of our group couldn’t resist racing the first leg of the famous Palio on foot. The Palio is an annual horse race between the different districts of Siena, which Allison describes in more detail in her blog from the 20th. After the race (which Johnny won) we walked around to look at the town hall and the Chigiana Academy of Music. We had a little extra time, so we all sat down to enjoy a cup of hot chocolate at Cafe Palio right on the main square.

    We continued our walk through one of the country’s post-war most left wing/communist/now the Democratic Party of the Left cities in Italy. Professor Falassi had explained in class that Siena has been known as “la piu` rossa delle rosse.” This city was one of the strongest seats of resistance against Mussolini’s government and the Nazis during WWII. We arrived at one of the most ornate churches I have ever seen, the Duomo of Siena, which is saying something considering we have visited St. Peter’s and Santa Maria Maggiore in Rome. Although no photo could do it justice, I tried my best. With striped marble pillars, a painted starry night ceiling, busts of every Pope lining the wall, works sculptured by both Michelangelo and Bernini, this cathedral packs a visual punch. Most of us quickly moved this beautiful cathedral to the top of our favorite Italian church lists (yes we’ve been in enough churches here to need a list), although it was a little too busy for some of us.

    We continued through to the museum which contained all sorts of fascinating religious items, including a glass box of bones, priest robes, and illuminated manuscripts. The museum was also conveniently attached to the facciatone which towered behind the cathedral. This of course meant more stairs! (213 by Johnny’s calculations). After climbing several tight spiraling staircases we emerged at the top to see a beautiful panorama of the city of Siena and the surrounding countryside. And then, who should appear, but Professor Falassi, to explain all the sites and history of Siena to us. He was born in this city and his family dates back hundreds of years. Professor Falassi lives in the Porcupine district, which he pointed out to us from our vantage point.

    We made our descent back into the museum where Professor Falassi proudly showed us the Majesty, painted by Duccio in 1311 in Siena. This amazing painting is an image of the Madonna and Christ and also includes panels displaying Christ’s life and works. These panels were cut up and sold off years ago, but almost the entire collection has been reassembled. The only missing pieces are the ones displaying the tempting of Christ, which is displayed in the Frick Museum in New York City. According to Professor Falassi, when Frick was approached by some wealthy Sienese who wished to purchase the work in order to complete the display in Siena, he replied that if they really wanted all of the pieces to be displayed together he would be happy to purchase them for his own collection. This exchange obviously resulted in a stalemate. This painting is not only a beautiful piece of artwork, but it is also representative of Siena’s relationship with the Madonna.  The Madonna has many titles, but the Sienese chose the “Queen of the Heavens” as their protector. Here, the Madonna is both a religious and a civic symbol of the city, even those who aren’t truly religious still respect the symbol of the Madonna. Duccio wrote on the bottom of his work “Holy Mother of God Bestow Peace on the City of Siena and Salvation on Duccio Who Painted Thee.” The painting was originally paraded through the streets of Siena on the way to the cathedral to show the Madonna the city of Siena.

    We finally made it to Gallo Nero at 1:00 for our five course lunch extravaganza. We started with an antipasto of salami, prosciutto, bread and olive oil, duck pâté, and medieval spice bread. Next, we devoured garbanzo bean soup and white bread. Our third course, and my personal favorite was the pici pasta with a bolognese sauce. For our fourth course there was a split between the boys and the girls, the girls requested chicken while the boys ate veal. And finally, when we thought we could eat no more, the spice cake with a thin sliver of fruit cake on top. Some of us even managed to make it to the clean plate club with a great deal of effort. Meanwhile Professor Falassi ate a fairly light meal and when asked about it, he kindly said that we were his lunch and the food was just food.

    After lunch we planned on exploring, but once we dragged our now much heavier selves up the hill towards the bus station, it was all we could do to stroll through the park and take a quick glance at a fort nearby. Exhausted and full, we climbed aboard the bus back to Florence for a nap. No dinner for us tonight.

- Grace Oldfield

Ciao from Pisa!!

We were lucky enough to have a chance to sleep in a little this morning before having breakfast together as a group at 10:00. Once we were finished, we walked over to the train station in Florence, called the Firenze Santa Maria Novella, to catch a commuter train to take us to one of Italy’s more well-known cities, Pisa!

The city of Pisa is located in the Tuscany region of Italy and lies on the banks of the River Arno (the same river that runs through Florence). Located within the city is the University of Pisa, which dates back to the 12^th century. This is one of three universities in the Pisa University System; the other two are called Scuola Normale Superiore and Sant’Anna School of Advanced Studies. The University of Pisa is considered the best university in Italy based on the Academic Ranking of World Universities. It is well known for its science and engineering courses and it was also where Galileo taught as a professor in 1589. However, what Pisa is most famous for throughout the world is the Leaning Tower of Pisa. And is reported that Galileo performed his experiments verifying the law of gravity from atop the famous tower.

The Leaning Tower of Pisa

The Tower is located in the Piazza dei Miracoli (Square of Miracles), which also contains Il Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta (Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption), the Baptistry, and the Campo Santo. The Leaning Tower of Pisa is the bell tower for the cathedral that is located in Pisa. However the bell was eventually removed to lessen the weight of the tower and prevent it from falling down. Construction of the Tower began in August 1173 and continued until 1178 when work was suspended. It resumed from 1272-1278 and then again from 1360-1370 when the Tower was finally completed.

The famous tilt to the Tower occurred after the construction of the second floor was completed and can be attributed to the small foundation (only three meters deep) that was used and the poor subsoil underneath the tower. Since then, most of the pillars have needed to be replaced as structural damage was noticed. Currently only 33 of the original 180 pillars of the open galleries are made of the original San Guiliano marble.

After we arrived in the Piazza dei Miracoli, we began taking numerous pictures of the Tower, the cathedral and the rest of the square. Of course everyone got at least one picture of them “holding up” the Tower.

 Mark “holding up” the Tower while on Brian’s shoulders

After we had our fill of taking pictures, we thought it would be a great idea to climb the Tower (you know how much we love to climb). Unfortunately we felt it was a little too expensive and we decided it was not worth it to climb to the top.

We then decided to go into Il Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta, the cathedral that is also located in the piazza. The church was decorated in a gothic style with black and white marble and a gilded wooden ceiling. It was definitely one of the more impressive churches I have seen so far on the trip.

The front of Il Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta

Afterwards we had a nice lunch at a restaurant near the Tower before returning to the train station to catch a train back to Florence.

The fourteen of us in front of The Leaning Tower of Pisa

A piu tardi!

-Evan Kimpel

Getting to Know the North: Spotlight on Siena

This morning, our group had the honor and privilege of having class with a very special guest lecturer, Professor Alessandro Falassi, an anthropologist at the University of Siena. He got his PhD at Berkeley and often gives lectures for American students, including other UD groups. Since we are traveling to Siena on Monday, Professor Magee thought it would be good for us to learn a little bit more about the city, its role in history, its culture, and its politics, from one of the very best experts.

Despite its seemingly miniscule size today (22,000 inhabitants inside the city walls), Siena was once one of the most important cities in all of Europe. From around 1200 until 1348, Siena was the center of everything in Italy because it was centrally located in the system of roads at the time. Not only did a plethora of merchandise, such as grains, cloths, and spices flow through the city, pilgrimages to Rome also did. During the medieval period, believers often trekked to Rome to see one of the most important images of Christ that ever existed. Legend has it that as Christ was making his journey to His crucifixion, bearing the crucifix on His back, a woman felt compassion for the tired man and gave Him her handkerchief to wipe the sweat and dirt off His face. After He did this, there remained a perfect imprint of His face on the handkerchief. Today, this important image of Christ has supposedly been hidden away by the Pope and the Catholic Church, but it remains a very important article for the devout.

 Being one of the centers of the European world made Siena an extremely rich city at its height during the medieval period and it grew very rapidly. It was so wealthy, that it was able to control politics, financing many regimes. Siena was the cambia moneta, the place where money exchanged hands and people were able to purchase credit for the first time. With the power of the Pope and the emperor on its side, Siena did not need a standing army; those who didn’t pay their debts were threatened with excommunication – a very powerful force in such a Catholic country. With all this wealth, the Sienese sought to build some of the most impressive medieval structures of their time, the two principal ones being the cathedral and the city hall. The cathedral, Duomo di Siena or Santa Maria Assunta (Most Holy Mary of Assumption) is dedicated to the Madonna, the patron saint of Siena. It was built between 1215 and 1263. A very large addition that would have doubled the size of the structure was planned and started in 1339; Siena was seeking to build one of the grandest cathedrals of the age. However, work was halted in 1348 due to the Black Plague and rapid economic decline of the city; this addition remains unfinished today. The city hall in Siena’s Piazza del Campo contains the Torre del Mangia, which was one of the tallest secular towers of medieval Italy at 102 m high, built to be taller than the tower in rivaling city, Florence (don’t ask someone from Siena what they think of Florentines!). At the time it was built, it was the tallest structure in Italy. A unique aspect about the tower is that it is the top, not the base, that is constructed from Sienese marble. According to Professor Falassi, students studying architecture today still marvel at how the tower can stand.

Duomo di Siena.

Torre del Mangia.

The tower is not the only unique thing about the city of Siena, however. Aesthetically, Siena strikes a perfect balance with the surrounding countryside; new things must be in tune with the old and with the nature around them. This is why if you ever look at a map of Siena, you can see lots of green interspersed with the city streets and buildings. Additionally, people were able to paint their houses in whatever shade they liked, a very unique characteristic. The city of Siena believed greatly in the freedom of its citizens; in 1310 all of the laws of the Sienese state were translated into Italian from Latin and a copy was kept in the city hall for the public to read—at least those who could read. This was the first time something like this was ever done. What makes Siena a very unique city still today (other than its medieval character) is the balance between religion and politics that exists there. I have already mentioned that the cathedral in Siena is dedicated to the Madonna; the Sienese people turn to the Madonna in every aspect of their lives and are very dedicated to their faith. However, as we learned in class, Siena is also at the very heart of the “red belt,” in northern Italy – the center of the Communist party which in the 1990s changed its name to the Democratic Party of the Left. When Professor Magee asked Professor Falassi to explain to the students how the seeming contradiction between Catholic religious fervor and strong communist and socialist roots is reconciled, Professor Falassi summed it up very concisely: “Politics are politics and the Madonna is the Madonna.”

After Professor Falassi’s lecture, we watched a short video about the Palio, a tradition unique to Siena. The Palio is a horserace that takes place every summer in Siena amongst the 17 different communities or wards (contrade) within the city. Each community is represented by a horse (not all 17 communities race every year; they trade off), which is assigned to a jockey by lottery 3 days before the race. This event is attended by almost every single individual in the city. In fact, they take it so seriously, that on the day of the race the horses are blessed by a priest in a church. The prize for the winner is a painted banner of the Madonna by a famous artist. I was shocked at how dramatic the end of the race was, with the people from the winning community rushing the track and hugging, celebrating, and weeping.

We learned so much from Professor Falassi and the lecture got us really excited to see Siena in person on Monday.

Professors Magee (right) and Falassi (left).

Fun Fact: Professor Falassi served as the location consultant for the 2008 James Bond film, Quantum of Solace, part of which takes place in his hometown of Siena.  

After a very informative morning, we were eager to see more of Florence, so we decided to grab lunch on the go and head up to Piazzale Michelangelo, a very famous square high up on a hill where one can see a magnificent panoramic view of Florence, as well as one of the two replicas of the David outside of the Academia (this one is bronze). You know what that means: more hills and more stairs (slanted ones too)! But, the Vesuvius level inclines were (as always) completely worth it to see Florence from a bird’s eye view. Even after seeing it up close, I didn’t realize how the Duomo truly dominates the city landscape until I saw it all from above; it is truly incredible. We could point out many places we had been, including the churches Hilary described yesterday, the general location of our hotel, and the Jewish synagogue.

Beautiful views of Florence from Piazzale Michelangelo featuring sights like the Duomo (top photo) and the Jewish Synagogue (bottom photo, sea green dome).

After shedding our coats and basking in the sun for awhile while taking in the gorgeous views, we decided to adventure further up the hill to a couple of churches nearby. The first was Chiesa di San Salvatore al Monte, a simple Franciscan church dedicated to Saints Cosmas and Damian. Walking in I knew I was definitely not in Rome anymore. The more medieval churches here in Florence are much more simple, but they’re also very refined in their simplicity.

Walking into Chiesa di San Salvatore al Monte.

The interior of Chiesa di San Salvatore al Monte.

A little further down the road, we encountered a second church, Basilica San Miniato al Monte, my favorite church I’ve seen in Florence so far. Large and cavernous and decorated with a mixture of many colors of marble and beautiful frescoes, it is also beautiful for its prime location and wonderful views of the city from its stairs.

Evan, Grace, and Max in front of Basilica San Miniato al Monte.

Interior of Basilica San Miniato al Monte.

Another interesting characteristic of this church was a closely packed graveyard in the back, filled with very ornate gravestones.

Graveyard behind Basilica San Miniato al Monte.

After all of that walking in the beautiful Florentine sun, I finished my afternoon off with some delicious gelato. Nothing like a day of exploring! As the Italians say, “Chi cerca trova.” (Seek and you shall find.)

Until next time! Ciao a tutti!

- Allison McCague